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Downtown Livermore has a plethora of restaurants. Newcomer Café Calamari serves a unique blend of Mediterranean cuisine. With a wealth of experience in the kitchen and in the dining room, Leo Sahin has brought tasty food and hospitality to the table since June 2024.
Sahin describes the cuisine at the restaurant as Mediterranean and continental. The primary influence is his Turkish heritage, but he trained in many cuisines, managed restaurants serving Italian and French food, and owned a Turkish restaurant. The former home to Roya Afghan now sports coastal colors of sea-bright turquoise and sunny yellow along with hints of pale blue sky. Decorative, empty wine bottles adorn the wall along with mirrors and artifacts.
The menu begs for explanations. Items look familiar with different names. For example, the shish (shish kebab) and meat dishes come with cacik sauce. Since Greek restaurants appeared on the American dining scene before Turkish eateries, most people are familiar with tzatziki, the Greek yogurt sauce and dip that accompanies gyros and is widely available at stores such as Trader Joe’s. Cacik is the traditional Turkish sauce similar to tzatziki made with yogurt, mint, dill, cucumber, and garlic.
On my first visit to Café Calamari for lunch, I ordered a char-grilled beef and lamb patty platter with rice pilaf and seasonal vegetables. Sahin brought a house made roll and an excellent dipping sauce with extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and herbs. I dipped pieces of my meat into the cacik sauce—and the excellent bread dip. I also ordered fried calamari.
Sahin’s signature dish lived up to its starring role in the restaurant’s name. The calamari (with many squid rings) were delicious, lightly battered and fried, and not over-salted. I dipped them into the Remoulade-sauce and the bread sauce which was a high step above the common plate of EVOO and swirl of vinegar.
But first, I was surprised when Sahin brought the calamari covered by a cloche, a fine dining touch I have rarely seen or experienced in the East Bay. Sahin or the server lifts the lid, and the aroma of warm seafood was pleasing.
Seeing food brought to the table covered by a cloche is so rare in the Tri-Valley, and the three sauces with my lunch were so well-conceived that I wanted to know more about Sahin. His backstory brought clues about the casual yet gourmet vibe at Café Calamari.
After culinary school in Turkey, he joined the Turkish Army for his mandatory service. At age 21, his assignment was to manage food and beverage services for four generals and their families from the U.S., U.K, Greece, and Turkey, plus their families at the NATO Allied Land Command base in Izmir, Turkey. Already knowledgeable of English, he learned about their everyday, special occasion and holiday food and beverage. Later he worked at private clubs in Turkey.
When he decided to live in the U.S., he worked as a chef and general manager at gourmet restaurants on the Peninsula. When he and his friends had time off, they occasionally camped at Del Valle and learned about the Tri-Valey area. A friend who owned a restaurant in Seattle invited him to join him and open a Turkish restaurant.
After closing his Seattle restaurant, Sahin returned to the Bay Area with the idea of opening a Mediterranean dining establishment. Recalling his positive impression of the Tri-Valley, found the First Street location brought a savvy dining public, foot traffic, and reasonable rent compared to the Peninsula.
I returned to Café Calamari for dinner with my husband and another couple. After Sahin greeted us warmly, we said hello to six of our friends who by chance were also dining there. After seeing their colorful and tempting appetizer combo, we ordered the same though the char-grilled octopus and homemade smoked salmon gravlax looked tempting.
At our table, the appetizer quickly disappeared. One friend who prefers fried rounds of eggplant, liked this sautéed Mediterranean version. I enjoyed a bite of the large artichoke heart filled with diced potato, carrot, green peas, fresh dill, and EVOO. I vowed on my next visit to order the appetizer featuring only artichoke hearts. My husband dove into the bed of beets topped with garlic yogurt and pistachio.
A basket of four warm, house-made rolls and the special dipping sauce accompanied the appetizer platter. Shortly thereafter, one of our friends asked for more dipping sauce. Though the dip ingredients sounded so simple, Sahin’s recipe and kitchen experience elevated the bread’s accessory.
The classic Turkish shish platter with a mound of rice and pasta, and generous helping of fresh vegetables was well-received. Sahin came over to lift the cloche to present the dish. A friend at the other table ordered the four baby lamb chops and gave a thumbs up.
I opted for beef manti. Sahin hand prepares the tortellini-like pasta stuffed with beef which is a specialty of Kayseri in Central Turkey. His presentation includes a ring of marinara around the manti with a mound of garlic yogurt and a drizzle of brown butter in the center. If you do not like spice, ask for the manti without the sprinkle of hot-spicy Turkish pepper on top, as I did.
The fish options were popular, too. My husband took home half of his large portion of fresh branzino filet, aka Mediterranean sea bass, lightly seasoned with EVOO, salt and pepper. A friend at the other table enjoyed her generous piece of Atlantic salmon. There are vegetarian pasta options such as wild mushroom ravioli and penne Arrabbiata.
Though not a fan of baklava, the Greek dessert of layers of phyllo dough rolled with honey and nuts and then baked, I am now a convert to kunefe. Dig into the house-made dish with baked shredded phyllo dough lightly touched with Turkish simple syrup and discover a surprise—a wonderful layer of melted cheese curds. The blend of savory cheese with the textural contrast of crunchy, slightly sweet phyllo shreds is heaven in my book.
Sahin is waiting for a lottery chance at a rare full liquor license but offers wine and beer. Meanwhile the new Pleasanton resident is pleased to welcome guests at Café Calamari along restaurant row on First Street, Livermore.
